What goes in to a Good Controller?
It starts with love — a love for the game we played when we were kids,
a love for the competition, hype, and community it’s bloomed into.
That’s what pushes us to demand the most out of our conches.
Good controllers let the hype flow.
The first step is to bring these ever aging controllers up to par for competition.
Every T3 board (unless stated otherwise) has been fitted with an adjustable snapback fix module, optimized triggers, lubed stickboxes and factory new sensors (courtesy of FIRES). These sensors are the soul of the controller, they decide how well the controller responds to your movement.
Factory new sensors means:
– Precise, accurate inputs
– Perfect pivots
– Longest lasting consistency
– 0 PODE
PODE is the umbrella term for several symptoms that come from the sensors degrading. It can be good, but more often that not, it will cause common problems such as wrong way aerials, lingering light shields and drifting directional inputs.
When it’s good, it adds a delay on the x-axis, which allows you to ledgedash easily with a diagonal down and in to the stage input. The delay makes sure you drop from the ledge first, while already moving towards the perfect wavedash angle to get on to stage.
Any controllers with beneficial PODE will be labelled accordingly in the store when they do show up. Good PODE is lightning in a bottle, it won’t last, so any controllers sold here with PODE will have a solid replacement warranty for when they inevitably transition into the problematic forms of PODE.
More information on PODE by Kadano here
Quick guide on temporarily resetting your PODE here
Snapback is an issue with nearly every gamecube controller, in Melee and Ultimate, that occurs
when you let go of the stick, let it return to neutral, and it snaps
back across to the other side, far enough to create an input that can
cause unintentional turnaround neutral B’s, empty pivots, fast falls, and double
The modules add what’s essentially a low pass filter to stop that very
small input from being read, so you can move precisely and aim neutral
B’s perfectly. They’re adjustable, because the strength of the snapback
changes as the controller wears down. Typically it’ll need adjustment
around every 6 months or so depending how much you play, and I’ll be making a guide on how to adjust the modules soon™
There’s a few versions:
Regular Module – This legacy version introduces drift when plugging into consoles (emulators are almost always fine). You’ll need to hold X + Y + Start for 5 seconds every time you plug in to a console.
No reset module – The latest tech avoids the drift flaw with some added circuitry, this makes it a HUGE quality of life upgrade if you plan on attending tournaments.
Single axis – The above options cover both horizontal and vertical axis. Single axis modules have the drift flaw, but make for a good budget option if your character doesn’t mind snapback on one of the axis
Shield drop notches are the normal southeast and southwest corners of the gate adjusted to specific values to be able to easily perform a shield drop while dashing. They’re made less relevant with UCF, but some controllers will still need adjustment.
Placing the corner values in vanilla shield drop range has the added benefit of letting you walk forward and f-tilt, with crouch cancel being a tiny movement away.
Shield drop notches are included with the other options.
Max wavedash notches are the biggest game changer for nearly every character. They allow you to quickly find the perfect angle for the longest wavedash, and almost more importantly, help lock you out of inputting a fully horizontal air dodge that’s easily punishable. They also offer help with one of the strongest recovery angles for certain characters.
Full notches completely level up the recovery options for Fox, Falco, Shiek, Pikachu, and Mewtwo. Powerful mix ups are unlocked and made easy to execute; with added benefits of easy turnaround up-tilts, maximum and minimum wavedash lengths, and quick shield drops. They also feel pretty damn cool.
By replacing the stick box spring with a differently shaped spring + washer, we can reduce the overall strength needed to move the stick around with minimal losses to the snappy responsiveness of it. It also gets rid of the uneven resistance coming out of the deadzone, making for easier tilts and other small precise inputs.